Greetings from the air!

After a great few days in Helsinki, Ashley and I returned to Moscow for the night to catch our flights home (at least that was the original plan; my trip has since been extended). We left for the airport at the ungodly hour of 4:30 am, and that was a stretch, for me, since our flight was at 7:45 and the airport was a good hour and a half away, including a walk to the bus station and then the bus ride from the city center. Luckily, we made it with just a little time to kill. After a brief layover in Riga, we landed safe and sound in Moscow, which felt just like going home. After a few napping hours, we headed back to Arbatskaya, the part of town where there are street performers and monkeys in clothes and bars. We successfully ordered some blini (like Russian crepes only a thousand times more delicious) with chicken and salmon (not together) and then decided to find a final drink in Russia. We accidentally chose, from the dozens of bars on the street, an imitation American diner, complete with pink fluorescent lights and vinyl seating. We each had a beer and a vodka (to tone down the American-ness of it all) and spent a good hour or so reveling in all the ridiculous things that have happened on this trip (start with train ride with five half naked Russian men, then consider all of finland, and now this bar...). When we'd finished, we decided to head down toward the Red Square and the Kremlin, just to see it at night. I cannot even describe how beautiful it was. All the towers of the Kremlin were illuminated, with the stars on top lit up in red. The gold roofs of the cathedrals inside were shining and the whole effect was magnificent. I only had my phone camera, and it didn't do so well, but here are a few photos:

We were on the opposite side of the Kremlin from the Red Square so we ended up just circling it, which was awesome because we had the perfect view of most of the complex, especially because somehow we ended up on the other side of the river. If you ever go to Moscow with a lot of money, there is a hotel right on the other side of a major bridge across the river, that must have the most amazing view. Stay there. Once we got on the right side of the river, it was only a short walk Over to the Red Square, and it was impossible not to find it, because we could see Gum (the huge department store) from across the city it was so lit up:

The Historical Museum was beautiful too:

(With some more Kremlin in the background)

It was getting to be a little past 11 (we actually heard some bongs of the clock tower of the Kremlin) so we decided to head back to the hostel. We got a little lost on our way (Moscow is by far the hardest city we've had to navigate; all circular roads with spokes branching it all over the city) but eventually located ourselves and made it back with no further incident.

We didn't really have anything planned for our last day; we had a 4:40 pm flight to Copenhagen so didn't have much time for adventures, so we had a leisurely breakfast, packed up, checked out, and headed to the airport. Thank goodness we didn't leave any later, because there were a thousand security checkpoints to go through, and the airport was very confusing, with not a whole slew of English speaking staff. We finally got checked in and made it to the gate, and were on board before we knew it. We had a long layover in Copenhagen (another reason I decided to stick with that leg of the original round trip flight). We landed around 5:15 pm and my flight to Tallinn took of at 6:15 am, and Ashley won't leave until noon. Our plans were to explore the city a bit, then head back to the airport for a nice night of airport sleep. Guided by my friend Anne, Copenhagen guru, who studied abroad there, we were headed to a cafe for dinner. It wasn't quite as easy as she assured me it was, because there were no metros running between the airport and the north train station, because it I closed at the moment, but we were able to find it via the central train station, with a lot of help from the Danes. They, like the Finns, were happy to help us find our way. We hasn't had lunch, since we had a huge breakfast around 10:30, so by the time we got to the cafe (which was so perfect! Thanks Anne! Bookshelves lining the walls and cozy room) we were starving. And thank goodness, because the plates were huge! We eat had a sandwich (with real vegetables on it!) that was so big it was more like a salad sitting on top of a piece of bread, with another thrown on top of it, and served with delicious potatoes. Though I at least was a little daunted, I persevered and finished it all. With that meal behind me, I can handle any grocery shortages Eastern Europe can throw at me! I'm not too worried though... In most of the cities I'm visiting fresh food market are the first on my to do list. After we sat and digested a bit, we started out for a little stroll through the city. It was getting pretty cold and the sun was already setting (I forgot about that because we've been so far north... Now that it's getting to be September I guess sunsets will be earlier than I'm used to!) so we didn't have too much time, but Anne was adamant that we walk to the canal, so off we went. The first thing we found upon leaving the cafe was a huge market selling all my favorite things: olives, cheese, and chocolate. If I hadn't just eaten my weight in delicious sandwich I wouldn't have been able to resist. The chocolate was all in crazy shapes: horseshoes, zippo lighters, iPhones, tools, you name it:

Really... What market is door hinge shaped chocolate appealing to?

As we strolled we passed some gorgeous buildings, cute little streets, etc. The canal was just as pretty as promised- lots of boats tied up at the dock, with the night time city in the background. Lots of cafes, restaurants, and bars right on the water too... If we had known the city or been more comfortable with the metro system we could have taken advantage of them. Instead we left the canal around 9:30 (11:30 Moscow time, so I was sleepy!) and headed back to the airport. We found a place on a bench where someone had ripped off the armrests that divide the seats so I was mildly comfortable, but freezing! I guess you're not really supposed to use the airport as a hotel, but there was no need to be so cold. Woke up around 3:45 to check in, and after about 40 minutes of panic that the check in desk wasn't open 2... 1.5... hours before my flight, everything worked out. Ashley and I said goodbye as she heads back to DC and I begin this new adventure on my own. I'm feeling nervous and a little lonely but also just so, so excited! Got through security and I made it into the air. One more short stop (in Riga) and I'll be in Tallinn! Bets on whether I can find the hostel on my own?