Who let this German in here?

I arrived in Prague after a pretty uneventful night train (no chatty underdressed Russian men). I got in around 7 and started toward the hostel. Prague is the most confusing city I've seen since Moscow. None of the streets are straight and they are constantly running into buildings and towers, which makes it really hard to follow a map. Essentially I got terribly lost and only by an act of God did I manage to end up at the front door of the hostel. Found it, in any case and went upstairs. It was too early to check in, but the receptionist told me I could have some tea or coffee. I took that to mean I could have the free breakfast (I was starving and hadn't gotten to get any Czech Koruna yet). When I didn't think I could possibly lurk around anymore (but I would have loved to just curl up in the corner and go to sleep) I went outside, just as the rain started. My umbrella, unfortunately, was locked up in the storage room, so I braved the rain without it. The city is so beautiful! Even in the rain. Still, I wanted to find someplace dry, so I decided to go to the national museum. It was pretty small, because the main building is closed for renovation (is it just me, or have I run into a LOT of renovation problems on this trip? Does that happen to other people?). The main building is gorgeous, look:

(Can you tell it's pouring?)

Despite the museum being only two rooms, I learned more about the Hapsburgs than I ever cared to know. When I had looked at everything, I set back out into the rain.

I love these streets and squares with such colorful buildings!

Finally, it was late enough to check in. I got back to the hostel a completely different and unexpected way (I think the streets of Prague are like the Hogwarts staircases: they lead somewhere different every time I go anywhere) but got back nonetheless. I checked in and collapsed into bed, where I took an hour nap. I was woken up by a German pirate. Seriously, this old German guy walked in and told me that he is directing a movie for a film festival. I was still in bed so I rolled over to groggily tell him that was great, and saw that he was wearing one of those pirate hats and a floor length cape, and carrying a cane. I wanted to ask if he was in the movie, but I thought that might be rude, so I let it go.

Unable to sleep after that for fear of terrible nightmares, I got up and went toward the Jewish Quarter, umbrella in hand (so I apologize for any crooked pictures, I was taking them while holding an umbrella). I saw a whole slew of beautiful synagogues:

The Jerusalem Synagogue, which houses a museum of Jews in Czechoslovakia after the Second World War.

Pinkas Synagogue, with a memorial to those who died in the Terezin concentration camp. There were a few rooms whose walls were absolutely covered with names and dates - I couldn't believe how many. Upstairs there was an exhibit of artwork done by children in the camp... They were very sad to see, especially as most of them had names and dates on them, along with the date that the child (in most cases no older than 10) died. Another interesting exhibit: artwork by children today who have been asked to express how they felt after learning about Terezin and the Holocaust.

Altar in Klausen Synagogue where there was a museum of Jewish holidays and culture. I didn't get to spend much time here, because I arrived just before they closed.

Then I just walked around the city for a while, feeling much happier under the umbrella. The rain let up in the evening, too, so I went to a bar with two Scottish guests and another American who I happened to meet in the hostel, where we drank beer that was literally cheaper than water, and delicious.

The next day I explored Old Town in the morning. It was pretty sunny for a while, so I decided to go up the clock tower. Lack of planning didn't fail me, and I got there just as it was about to chime, so I decided to stay and watch. A skeleton pulled the chain which, apparently, rang the bell. The face of the clock is cool too: it has a couple faces and hands that may mean something to astronomers but not to me.

(The skeleton is the figure on the right side)

The view from the tower was amazing! Unfortunately all those photos are on my camera, so you'll just have to wait. The roofs of Prague just spread so far, and they are dotted with towers and cathedrals and synagogues.

Then I decided to cross Charles Bridge and go over to see the Prague Castle. Unfortunately, the rain started halfway across.

See all the umbrellas? At least it made most people go home so it wasn't as crowded as I've head it can get. And still a pretty view across the river. Once on the other side, I wandered for a while. I found the graffiti-ed memorial to John Lennon:

It's a somewhat long wall, on which there is not an inch not covered in many layers of graffiti, all about peace and John Lennon.

I wandered into this church to get out of the rain for a minute, but a nun scowled at me, so I got out of there quick.

The walk up to the castle was intense! It stopped raining almost as soon as I started up the steep hill and the sun came out just in time to make me terribly hot in my rain jacket and sweatshirt. Still, the view from the top was definitely worth it, and the road itself was lovely; just shops and restaurants along a narrow cobblestone street.

Finally arriving at the castle, I saw almost everything, and there is a lot to see! I went first into the royal palace, where there was just a giant hall, and a few chambers on display. Then I went to an exhibit on the history of the castle. It was very interesting, but it was extremely long and I felt in dire need of coffee after that. Coolest was the walk along the old houses. One of them was lived in for a whole by Franz Kafka, which explains this terrifying Kafka statue in the city center:

Along this row of houses was an exhibit on armor and shields as well as torture instruments. Here is one of my favorite shields:

I continued on to see St. Vitus' cathedral, which was massive and beautiful. The sunlight coming through the stained glass made for really cool light on the columns inside:

I had only the picture gallery left to see, but I wasn't really sure how long it would take, and it was getting near closing, and my ticket was good the next day too, so I decided to save that one and come back. As I was on my way back across the river, the sun even came out!

Crazy German guy woke everyone up at three in the morning coming in and announcing to the room that he needed to turn on the light. Then again at five packing and unpacking a bunch of boxes. Then again at seven talking to himself in German and saying nothing in particular. Possibly he was practicing his lines.

Back at the castle, I saw the changing of the guard, and then went into the picture gallery. It wasn't as big as I thought it might be, and only took about 45 minutes, so I had most of the afternoon afterwards (a lot of the morning had gone into finding a laundromat, and into an internal conflict about whether to buy a pair of gloves). I did some more exploring on both sides of the river, ate a delicious cylinder of fried bread coated in sugar, and picked up my laundry. On the way back, I came across a sculpture garden that is to raise money for victims of a flood (I guess there was a flood in June). I found what is probably the most frightening piece of art ever created (including that Kafka statue):

And someone please tell me how this is an acceptable restaurant advertisement:

Then I went to the museum of communism. It's advertised as being "above the McDonald's and next to the casino" so I really don't know how the communists would have felt about that. Still, it was very, very well done: the exhibits were all interesting and informative, and the flow of the museum was easy to follow (I hate when I don't know which way I am supposed to turn!). Plus, there was this:

Anyway, I learned a lot about Czechoslovakia and Czech independence, which I knew literally nothing about, so it was worth my time! I spent the night sampling Czech beers at a beer factory and chatting with some New Yorkers I met. Then I wandered back to the hostel (and found it almost without getting lost!).

The German has put a collection of hats on top of the row of lockers. There is also a fake skull up there, which I can only assume is his.

Overall, Prague has been pretty, and I've had a lot of fun here. I'm not quite ready to move on, but I'm excited to spend the next few days exploring other parts of Czech Republic, and see what else the country has going on!

And not exactly my story, but still worth sharing so no one has any doubts about this German, apparently the day before I got here he came into the common room and offered to share his porn. When no one took him up on that, he put it on, just for him. And everyone else who is part of this film festival is staying at the hotel where it is actually taking place. He refused to pay for a room there, and that's how he ended up with us. Good night.